These are not my pix. Got em from the red site from a thread that Silverback made over there. To my knowledge, I dont think his thread was ever brought here. Just one or two sporadic links of it here and there.
I thought it would be good to have this info over here to maybe inspire/help anyone who has run into the "failure of the grossly under engineered cheesey rear crossmember".
Be good if Mods could sticky this. My reason for doing this is just to make it easy to find if needed.
Im only slapping up a basic short version with mostly just pix. The pix pretty much tell the tale and theres realy not a whole lot to know about the repair that Silverback made.
Any questions you may have? Just fire away! I can pretty much answer whatever you may have.
Silverback had the right solution and did a great job. So thanx and kudows to him for comming up with this.
Last he reported, his repair is holding well and the car has less sway then even before the failure. Nice and solid. For a mere few bucks Dodge coulda/shoulda made the piece this way from the factory. One look at the oem crossmember and the first thought that comes to mind is "What cheapskate Imbecile designed this part and what Bufoons approved that design!"
Silverback said it took him roughly a half hour to remove the rear crossmember out of the car. Not too difficult.
Pix of failed cracked oem subframe. Here you can see how, when going around turns or hitting very uneven chasis twisting surfaces, the ant-sway bar is loaded and with time fatigues the metal. Throw some rust into the deal to compound the issue.
All the cracks were cleaned up and welded back together before the bolstering began.
In this pix is the completed repair. 10 guage plate/sheet steel (easily bought online by the foot) has been welded to the flimsy surface of the oem piece to strengthen the whole area where the sway bar clamp pulls on it. You can also see where he closed off that small triangular area on top. Two holes in the new plates were drilled to give access to the original holes so the sway bar clamshells/bushings can bolt back up to their original spots.
All perimiters of the new 10 guage steel are welded. New steel is on face area and top triangular area.
You can use thin cardboard or construction paper to first create templates for the repair area. Then traced onto your new steel for cutting the shape. This also will insure a nice tight fit around that top pipe for welding.
Here is a pix of the degreased and sanded piece. With all welding repairs of 10 guage steel completed. Silverback is useing a fantastic product bought online called POR15 which solves any future rust issues.
In this pix he has sprayed down the raw piece with a self etching zinc phosphate prep coating that insures a good bond for the por15 top coat. The zinc phosphate prep is also sold on the POR15 site.
Waiting to dry. You can see the 2 new steel pieces that were added. Front and top triangle.
Here is the crossmember all painted up with the POR15. 2 coats are required.
Here is the anti sway bar bolted back up with clamshells for a test fit.
Heres the whole shebang installed back in the car.
Can see how nice, thick and strong the new plate is.
Its sad that we even have to make threads and repairs like this. Overall, I love the csrt. But on this crossmember piece........Dodge didnt even try.
Hope this helps someone. I know it helped me. I have a new crossmember sitting at home with the 10 guage steel and por15 all ready to go.
Mine hasnt failed yet but its cracking. I do have the JMB brace in for over a year and it does slow the process down. But over the past year the damage has grown.
I advocate having the JMB brace even if your crossmember/subframe isnt cracking as its a great lightweight performance piece that greatly stiffens up that whole tail end area. And when you think about it, its a cheap item to buy.
A must have and worth it when you think of the tremedous twisting forces applied to that sway bar. Even in stock form.
Stiffer lowering springs/coilovers also do help in reduceing compression and lean to alleviate and lessen the stress that would be put on the sway bar normaly. So those are a big plus to have also.